In a quiet corner of the bustling city of Ahmedabad lies a tiny oasis of old world charm - Vishalla - a restaurant, a village, a museum, a theater ... and a true blue Gujarat experience.
Vishalla is among other things famous for its restaurant. Many a picture of its
famous patrons adorn the open air foyer ... bollywood stars, cricketing heroes and even the occasional prime minister. So you have to be prepared when you visit for dinner. Prepared to wait around 2 hours to be seated at the table, that is. But if you have an open mind and are willing to experience a small slice of the glorious culture of Gujarat ... then its definitely worth the wait.
At the foyer they advise you to wander around and insist that the time will fly by without feeling the hassle of the wait. I would tend to believe them. Once we paid for dinner (A fixed rate of Rs 215 / $5 as of Dec 2006) and collected our token, we were left to our own means with a promise that a waiter would shout out our name (much like a town crier!), once our table was ready.
In the evening the place is lit up by mostly kerosene fueled lanterns creating a subdued ambiance and yet an atmosphere of adventure, as you peek around discover the little nooks, cubby holes and stages that dot the Vishalla campus.
We started off in open an air theater which has a small stage for musicians surrounded by a lots of charpai (cots with wooden posts, stringed with coir and a rough rug thrown over), swings, machaans , and other casual seating spaces. The sounds of musicians drumming their
dhols to a steady beat envelope you you in the cold night. The local Gujarat families spontaneously get into the center and dance the
Garba. A wonderful social dance form very unique in India. Interestingly the Garba dance is based around a mythical fight between
Goddess Durga and
Mahishasura . Hence the Dandyias or sticks that are used in this dance form.
We then spent a little time at the traditional puppet theater where a couple ... so very much at ease with their craft .... presented a wonderful drama. They didn't have a large audience and it allowed me to get the couple together for a few photographs.
We wandered back to the main stage and caught an artist demonstrating amazing dexterity and balance with his mouth.
This was followed by
traditional dance and
music by the
Rabari tribe. They are famous for their brightly colored dresses, enchanting voices, hypnotic dancing and the evening was truly magical when they held center stage.
We eventually sat down for dinner which was an elaborate affair with
over 30 different items served one after the other . In
the words of Sanjeev Kapoor a venerated chef - A simply superb meal.
Vishalla is also home to
Vechaar. An amazing museum housing more than 3500 utensils ...some dating back a 1000 years. Its story I shall experience and recount another day.
Meanwhile check out Smita Jain's
blog for a good review of the museum
The photographs I took were muted by the lack of light or blazing because of the colors of the Rabari dresses. A sepia treatment seemed to make a little more uniform and compliment the rustic ambiance of Vishalla. Not my best photographs but check out the entire
album